Remove walls and replace with glass or perspex and you've got a mini glasshouse or seed incubator. Nice one!
Monday, July 25, 2011
Sourced from: small-scale.net
Why not to buy a conventional mattress
Traditional mattress materials
Making a tick
Next, I laid the paper template on my fabric and added an inch to each side (2 inches added to the total width, 2 inches to the total length). I cut out the top and bottom panels at the same time to eliminate any shape inconsistencies. Mattress thickness can be based on personal preference. I chose to make the side panels for my mattress 9 inches wide (7 inches when finished) based on the height of the bed platform. I cut out rectangular side panels from the leftover scraps of my large panels and sewed them into one strip long enough to go around the perimeter of the two long sides and one short side of my large panels. (The other short side is where the button closure goes for stuffing straw – more on that later.)
Next, I pinned and pinned and pinned. Don’t underestimate this step. It takes a lot of patience, but the attention to detail at this point will make sewing much easier later. I took the edges of each panel (about ½ inch) and folded them over twice before pinning to reinforce the seam and make a finished edge on both sides of the fabric. This ensures that your fabric won’t unravel and should make stuffing much easier. You can attach panels to each other by folding with the edges sandwiched together. Make sure to insert pins perpendicular to the direction the thread will be sewn (if using a machine) so the needle glides easily over the pins. This fabric is heavy and unwieldy so pinning one side at a time makes it easier to push through a standard-size sewing machine. Also, make sure to use a heavy-duty needle, made for canvas or jeans, and thick thread.
The panel for the button closure was a little trickier. I wanted the closure to button in the center of the panel rather than at the seam to help put less stress on the edges of the mattress. And they need to be strong enough to take daily abuse. So, I cut out two panels to make up the closure side (one 6 inch wide panel and one 5 ½ inch wide panel) and finished one long side of each panel (where the buttons and button holes would be sewn). After over-lapping the finished edges (about ½ inch), the panel should be 9 inches wide (like the other sides) and easy to sew in place. After sewing everything up, I turned it inside out and stuffed the mattress!
Stuffing the mattress
Posted by Permaculture Ideas at 6:43 AM
Saturday, July 23, 2011
The best rocket stove design just got better! Airflow was an issue with the original #10 can rocket stove design. I cut some two inch wide "flaps" and pushed them over the top of the rocket stove. This helps keep the top on and allows great airflow. Now the rocket stove is really rockin'.
Posted by Permaculture Ideas at 10:04 PM
Build a Rocket Stove Step-by-Step. Building a rocket stove is quick and easy. You will need one #10 can and four small cans (soup, corn, beans, etc.). Seeing how to build a rocket stove is much easier then explaining the process in writing. I recommend watching the video and commenting if you have any questions. This is a great alternative heat source and cooking option for camping, emergency preparedness and to cook your food storage on. If you can cook it on a stove you can cook it on a rocket stove.
Posted by Permaculture Ideas at 7:26 AM
Thursday, July 21, 2011
The title says it all folks! Enjoy.
http://www.ecofilms.com.au Charles Bacon of Ecolicious is an aquaponics builder of pond based systems. Here we look at a couple of his installations as he explains the reason he likes to build a food production system that looks like a natural pond.
Posted by Permaculture Ideas at 6:33 AM
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
This terrific post is sourced from Milkwood.net - one of my favourite sites. Be sure to check their site out (a special thanks from Permaculture Ideas for all your hard work - you're an inspiration!)
How to get rich quick by growing shiitake mushrooms. Or you could just eat them instead. Much better.
Making a shiitake log: materials
Making a shiitake mushroom log: method
Our freshly-cut eucalypt logs, ready for action. Photo by Cathy x
The shiitake plug spawn. Photo by Cathy x
The spawn: The basic idea here is to fill the holes in the log with shiitake spawn (mycelium). Plug spawn (shiitake spawn that has colonized a wooden plug) is one way of doing this. Colonizing sawdust with shiitake spawn, and putting that in the holes, is another way. We used plug spawn, which Will Borowski supplied.
Tapping the plug spawn into the holes we drilled. Photo by Cathy x
Inoculating the log: This was the fun part. You take a spawn plug and tap it into the hole. Ta da! One innoculated log. Repeat until you run out of holes.
Sealing each end of the log with melted beeswax
Painting beeswax onto the holes, with plug spawn inserted, to seal them. Photo by Cathy x
The final product, hopefully. Photo by Mushroom gourmet.